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Lucy

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Gym reviews-

 

After spending a few weeks training in Thailand I thought this may come in handy for someone else.

 

Firstly - FIGHTERS GYM RAWAI-

The location of this gym is wonderful, just across the road from the beach, ( although a fisherman’s beach, so don’t expect to be sunbathing) there are plenty of places to eat, cheap and freshly caught fish / seafood, Thai food or steak among others.

The gym is also situated next to a massage parlour and a family mart, so everything you need is within easy walking distance

 

First impressions of Fighters wasn’t good, i booked 6 months in advance, and checked twice my room was confirmed.

When I arrive, no one knew I was coming!

The owner also runs a gym in Sweden ( which is where he was, who I’d book with ) and he hadn’t mentioned to anyone about my arrival, luckily one of the trainers was giving a 1-2-1, and he phoned someone who came down and showed me to a room

The ‘deluxe’ room id booked was quite simply a very small room with a fridge, wardrobe and single bed, plus sink, toilet and shower hidden behind a thin curtain, the lack of tv I found annoying but I could cope without, the lack of hot water and WiFi was very disappointing.

In my opinion especially when travelling alone, being able to use WiFi in my room and connect with family back home is important and partly why I’d choose certain hotels over others, WiFi did work in the gym cafe, but only if sat in certain seats, being 6 hours ahead of the uk and wanting to chat to people at home when they had finished work meant sitting on my own, in a dark corner almost on the pavement at 3am, not great

Everything is in one place, all the rooms, pool, gym, gym shop and cafe are on the same grounds. So training is a 5 step walk to get to, the gym consist of a small strength and conditioning area, plyo boxes, squat rack and kettle bells, then there’s two full size rings, and several heavy bags.

Training is twice daily 8am and 5pm, usually warm up of running and stretches, then shadow boxing, followed by rounds of pads, bag work and shadow boxing. The trainers are lovely ( if you miss a session, they will ask if you’re ok, and if you’re training next session )

As the group was fairly small, you get plenty of 1-1 time, and those willing to put the work in will be rewarded.

For 10 days accommodation and full training cost was 9500baht, a price you really can’t argue with, and there’s the opportunity to fight.

I found girls were treated equally, and there was a relaxed atmosphere and non ego gym

Would I go back- yes I would, in my opinion, if your serious about training and want a basic but friendly and relaxed place to train then this is the place!

 

Next I moved to Chalong, and as I wanted to do the touristy thing a bit I choose to do 1-2-1’s instead of camps or lessons, first up was the famous-

 

TIGER MUAY THAI or Muay Thai factory!

situated on Soi Tad-ied or fight street

It’s one long road with Muay Thai, Muay Thai and Muay Thai, throw in a few cafes, all healthy food, from protein shakes to vegan and pizza, a CrossFit Gym and a few shops, I felt like I’d died and gone to Muay Thai heaven!

The first thing you can’t help but notice is the size of Tiger, it’s the first gym on the street and huge. I booked a 1-2-1 for the following morning ( you buy a top up card for 200baht which is refunded when you return the card, and pay upfront, 700baht per hour) I checked out the shop and grill, before deciding to watch part of a lesson.

There were four to a bag, taking it in turns to 10 right kicks each, before the next person had there go. This went on for 20 minutes, one young man was nearly in tears, his foot was bright red and swollen and he was obviously kicking wrong, but 6 trainers stood together ‘working’ and not one picked up on this. I then got annoyed and went to move on, I sat out front waiting for a taxi, and within the 8-minute wait, 5 mini buses arrived dropping people off all due to train, ( at least in gym kit ) I counted over 40 people in a short space of time

The next day I went for my 1-2-1, my time was 10-11am, and I was excited to be training at such a famous place. I arrived a few minutes early as advised, and a trainer was sent down to meet me, he took me to the gym and played on his phone until 10.10, when he said ‘run’, I ran around the matts warming up, although I could of been doing anything as he seemed to forget all about me.

Then I began some shadow boxing while he checked my form, he continually said my form was 100%, which was strange as I’ve always struggled with my left kick.

Then on to pads, which I did really enjoy but hitting pads is my favourite, 3x3 minute rounds, before we started my training plan- which was me doing 30 standard sit ups, then 20 where he uses a pad to hit my stomach in between. That’s it, my hours 1-2-1 started at 10-10 and finished at 10.50. I’d just managed to take a quick photo of the two of us, before he tried to march me in the office to book more lessons with him, very awkward and uncomfortable when I’m in the office, in front of him, 3 other staff and 1 tourist and I’m having to say ‘I don’t want to book more, I just want to leave’

You book for tomorrow, same time, I teach you again

‘Err no I just want to go’

I’m not one to shout and make a fuss, hence not saying ‘it’s 10.10 get off your phone!’ So this was really out of my comfort zone.

Interestingly two days later, this same training ( named Boy ) drove past me, and asked why I hadn’t booked in and said he would give me a lift to the office now to book ) I just walked off

Over all impressions of Tiger are mixed, I didn’t have a great experience but that’s only one trainer, the size of the place, the classes they offer, they is always at least one lesson on, is fantastic, for anyone wishing to visit this famous gym or wanting a more western feel, this is the place, but in my opinion there are better gyms and trainers, I felt like with so many people using this gym, the trainers didn’t care, they know for everyone one of me, there will be 50 others ready to take my place, so I wouldn’t go back but I’m glad I experienced it

 

DRAGON MUAY THAI-

Situated on the other side of the road to tiger, and a minute or so walk away, is Dragon Muay Thai, the office is on the main road and the gym is hiding down a side street. The gym is shabby looking, the bags are almost thread bare in places, and the trainers shin pads were held together by tape, I can never figure out if this is good or bad, first impressions were what a dive, and also surely the equipment is dangerous? but it also shows it’s had plenty of use, and maybe the equipment becomes like a pair of old slippers and there too comfy to throw away?

First you pay 700baht and pick the time you want a 1-2-1, again I opted for 10-11, and was told to arrive a few minutes early to meet my trainer.

I was introduced to Pettrang, who asked my name, experience, where I’m from etc, at 10am he told me to start running, soon after we began to shadow box, then on to pads. He told me to do a left kick, then again and again, after three kicks he told me to point my toes backwards, and my knee more forward, and instantly my kicks felt better, ( I’ve always felt like the pads would split my shins when doing a left kick ) soon he has me doing spinning stuff, and superman punches, and 10 minute rounds! I thought I was going to die, he laughed and said ‘ but you only have 4 more rounds to go’

I made it to the end, where we stretched out, did some sit ups, and bowed out to each other, the lesson started a 10, and ended a few minutes past 11. Towards the end other people began to turn up for the lesson starting at 11, every single person

said hello or waved and made me feel like part of the team, even though we had never meet before. I’d loved this gym, and would highly recommend it, I honestly couldn’t wait to train here again, sadly what with wanting to do the touristy thing, the only free day I had was Sunday which the gym is closed, so I never got another lesson but I’m already planning next year

 

PHUKET TOP TEAM- situated at the other end of the road to Tiger, I had really high hopes for this gym, I follow the Gym and there fighters on social media, it’s on my bucket list and I was so excited.

Only to try and book a 1-2-1 and find out I had to be a member to train there.

They then wanted 700baht for the hour, plus 600baht membership, I explained I was only there for two more days and would only have time to train for the one hour ( I had day trip planned, and wanted to visit the temple, and sights etc ) but still they wanted to charge me almost double, so I said no thanks

Bit gutted, and maybe with hindsight I should of paid and experienced somewhere I’d always wanted to train? It it’s a hard choice when you feel like you’re being ripped off, it’s unfair

I also have 1-2-1 with trainer Gae and Attachai to come, so willpost those later

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I’m still here, due to fly to Bangkok tonight and train again on Tuesday, or maybe tomorrow if I can get to Yokkao for a lesson. Fingers crossed my left kick still feels stronger / better

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Sadly due to an incident with a scooter, the ground and my leg I never made it to training, ( I actually haven’t been able to train since, hoping to go back in the next couple of days )

Absolutely gutted as I was really looking forward to these, and so annoyed as I was too scared to hire a scooter as I thought I would crash, so I jump on the back of someone’s and a car comes round the corner, catches the front wheel and we both go flying!

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    • As Thailand's Muay Thai more and more turns its face toward the World and the West increasingly those coming to Thailand to seek out, experience, train in, fight in, even commit to and honor authentic Muay Thai will have a hard time finding it. In this brief article I want to point out the two biggest areas of difficulty. Keep in mind, I'm writing this from the perspective of having witnessed my wife who has fought more times in Thailand than any non-Thai in history, coming up on 300 times, as a fighter who has steered as clear as possible from aspects of the sport which are arranged or made for you, and become perhaps the foremost documentarian of the sport and art. Everything I describe is from often repeated things we've encountered, found ourselves in, worked through, and what we've learned from the experiences of others. Importantly, pretty much everyone who has been in the country a long time has their own experience and understanding of authenticity, and this is just ours. Thai culture, and Muay Thai culture is also a very complex and woven thing, it is not homogeneous or made in one way, so these are benchmark ideas and there are many exceptions. Authenticity, that which is not made for us.   1. Increasingly Thailand's Muay Thai is made FOR you One of the first challenges is honestly that of recognition. Because Thailand is so culturally different, and Thailand gym training not that of than Western and international gyms, whatever you are experiencing is going to feel authentic. Its authenticity will come through in everything that is different. It must be authentic because I'm not used to this. And because we can only judge from our own experiences, and from what we see and read, this is difficult to overcome. After 3 months in the country you are going to feel like you have really penetrated to the heart of something really new. After a year, you really will feel like you know what's going on, and if you have gravitated toward "authenticity" you'll probably feel like you are in a pretty "real" place. My caution is: Nope. You probably don't realize how much of Muay Thai has been turned toward YOU. And if it wasn't turned towards you, you wouldn't be participating in it. This is going to sound harsh, but pretty much ALL Western/International Muay Thai experiences are something like an elephant ride. The elephant (Muay Thai) is very real, and there is great privilege and beauty in being on an elephant. You're touching a living, breathing, REAL elephant...but you are on an elephant ride, made FOR you. Now, there are all sorts of elephant rides. There is the one where they walk in a circle and you get off, and another where you bathe and then bareback like a "real mahout" would, and then maybe all the way up to 10 day safaris, trekking on elephant back (is there such a thing?). But it's still an elephant ride. You get in the ring, its real...even if its arranged for you, its intense and real. You hit the bag, you burn the kilometers in road work, its real. This isn't to say anything is inauthentic. All of Muay Thai in Thailand will change you. This is about reaching, as passionate people will, those aspects of the sport and art that are unique to Thailand itself, that may fall from view as Thailand turns its face toward you. The Rules, For You How do I mean this? The rules of the sport have been changed so that you (in a less skilled way) will win fights, or perform well in fights you might not otherwise in the traditional Thai version of the sport (there is a full spectrum of this, stretching from RWS entertainment Muay Thai to ONE smash and clash). This is a fairly recent transformation, covering perhaps the last 10 years. The sport itself has been altered for you...and, as it has been altered for you, this also has washed back onto trad Bangkok stadium Muay Thai, which has absorbed many of the entertainment qualities which are pervading social media and gambling sites. In some sense the "authentic" traditional Muay Thai of Thailand doesn't really exist in promotional fight form anywhere in the halo that tourist and adventure tourist has reached. It's just a question of degree. The issues and influences behind this in trad stadium Muay Thai are more complex than this, but it too has turned its face towards "the foreigner". Some of this is just what people like to call "progress" or "the force of the market place" or others might call the "deskilling of Capitalism", but just know that in the fights themselves, they are by degrees turned towards YOU. It really might only be in the festival fight circuits of the provinces where you will still will find the culture and aesthetics of the sport and art FOR Thais. To be sure in festival fights there can be matchups that favor a larger foreign student of a local gym, which has relationship ties with the local promoter, especially if there is no sidebet. But the EVENT isn't for you, designed around you, catering to you or people like you. You're the oddity, and the rulesets and aesthetics have been less altered if at all. The Training, For You On a deeper level, the training in gyms is also made FOR you. The traditional pedagogy of Muay Thai, the manner in which it was developed through youthful circuit sidebet fighting, the kaimuay culture of non-correction and group dynamic sharing of a grown aesthetic, has been seriously eroded, supplemented and sometimes just outright replaced. You are (likely) not learning in the manner of the Thais that produced such acute excellence so many decades ago. Yes, there will be obvious things like farang krus and padmen in some gyms (many of them quite devoted to Muay Thai, but not produced by the subculture), something that is increasing in the sport, but, subtly, even if your padman is Thai, he may not even be an experienced ex-fighter, as mid-so Thais are holding pads now in the growing commercialization. Muay Thai is experiencing a gentrification and an internationalization at the gym level. Beyond padmen, the very manner of instruction and fighter development will have been changed in some sense for you. For one, increasingly you'll notice "combo" training, memorized strike patterns, which is both a deskilling of the sport (making it easier to teach, replicate and export), but also is training that is geared towards the new Entertainment trade-in-the-pocket patterns and aesthetics, made for tourists and online fandom. The change in the rules of the sport over the last 7 years or so, also is reflected in a change in how the sport is actually taught...even in spaces that feel VERY Thai. The sport is bending to the "combo" because it is signature to Western and international fighting aesthetics, and it can be taught by less skilled/experienced coaches. Fighters did not train like that, nor did they fight like that. As the sport has become deskilled the combo has taken an increasingly important role. Added to this, gyms have had to accommodate the expectations of Westerners and other non-Thais, as the weakening of the sport economically has turned almost every gym in the tourism halo towards at least a hybrid relationship to tourism...it needs to give the Westerner something they recognize and expect...and, because tourists and adventure tourist come with all sorts of investments and motivations, on different timescales, a lower common denominator works itself into the equation. Group "classes", organized drilling of groups, increased conceptualization and rationalization of techniques involving verbal correction and demonstration, even foreign coaching, these are FOR YOU changes in the sport. Sometimes these trends and aspects will only be subtly present, sometimes they will characterize the entire process. This is an elephant ride. And often it is difficult to distinguish where the elephant ends and the ride begins. Even "Fighter Training" Isn't The Process Along these lines of hunting the "authentic" training in gyms you'll run into this difficulty. You may be in a gym full of Thai fighters, even very active Thai fighters. There aren't many combos being held for. No real "group classes". A lot of Thai culture is going on, or seems to be. You are doing the work of fighters, real fighters, right there next to you. It's by Thais its for Thais and its pretty authentic...but for these things. For one, this gym if it's not a kaimuay in the more grassroots sense, all these fighters were made somewhere else. They were bought and brought into the gym, to be part of a stable. So what you likely are seeing, and doing, isn't actually how they became what they are. They are in the polishing, or add-a-level stage. The heartbeat of what made them is elsewhere. Even if you are a developed, accomplished fighter, and you too are in the "polishing" stage, you don't have what they have, which is a very different history of training, fighting and development. They are made of a different material, so to speak, and in truth that "material" is the actual "stuff" that everyone comes to Thailand looking for, that is where the "authenticity" is in their movements, vision, rhythms, stylistics. You can do all the padwork, all the clinch rounds, all the runs, all the bagwork, all the sparring, and you'll get better, in fact a LOT better...but, you'll be missing that "authentic" piece, the thing they got before they came to this gym. To add to this, if you did seek out the kaimuay that grows fighters in the principles of the sport, and their fighting circuits, these are not economically robust spaces, they are no longer teeming with fighters, and they're not focused on the tourist. They are part of a fragmenting economy of largely provincial fighting, and in which is difficult to find one's place, especially as an adult, as they are made for youth. The best you might find are hybrid spaces, kaimuay on the low ebb, which also are run by a great kru, making room for non-Thais, but even these spaces are a kind of bricolage of culture, knowledge and practice. There is no pristine location for the "authentic". "Treated Like a Thai" A layer even further down in terms of authenticity, it's not uncommon to feel that if you've stayed a lot, trained a lot, fought a lot, that you are being (more or less) "treated like a Thai". This is a big desire in the reach for "authenticity", and that experience of being "treated like a Thai" is therefore quite meaningful. But you aren't. You are still likely on an elephant ride, in a certain regard. And that's become Thailand's traditional Muay Thai is culturally founded on intense social power disparity. 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If you shun the rehearsed combo, you identify living threads of kaimuay culture and its values and ways of life as much as possible, if you fight five round trad Muay Thai fights, don't take weight advantages when you can, if you emotionally connect with the low social position of the Thai fighter, all the things, and then make it to the ring where "authentic" Muay Thai is "happening"...it's not even happening there. I mean this in this sense. Aside from the erosion and deskilling of the sport due to new promotional motivations, tourism and market pressures, Muay Thai itself has been eroding on its own within the country. The rising economic standard out of the classes of people who traditionally fought it have changed many of the motivations and commitments of the fighters themselves, and the talent pool of fighters has dramatically decreased. I'm going to throw a wild number out, but I'm just guessing in an educated way...maybe the talent pool is 10x smaller. Leaving aside that combos and entertainment aesthetics are now working their way into more or less "Thai" gym spaces, the fighters themselves just are not that good, not as developed, complex or accomplished by the time they are in Bangkok rings. Big name gyms grab up local kaimuay talent earlier and earlier (green fruit off the tree before ripe), the developmental fighter classes (informal groups within gyms) that grow the skills are seriously on the decline. A kaimuay may have had 20 fighting boys, now may have 3? Traditionally there was a stirring of the pot that was cooking a very deep stew of skills, more and more its a process just a few ingredients heated over a short time. This is to say, even if you can get all the way to the "authentic" rings, the quality and sophistication of the Muay Thai you will be facing will lack something that "authentic" dimension that characterized the freedom and expressiveness of skill of past generations. You may in fact fight a Thai who will fight quite like a farang (as far as it goes). They may end combos with a body shot, or throw endless elbows, be unable to defend well in retreat, have a muay of one or two weapons, or be limited and simplistic in the clinch. Not only is the skillset diminished, but in new generation fighters the rhythms and shapes of fighting that are "authentic" may not be there in full force. In some ways the Westerner may encounter a dim mirror of themselves. I'm writing this because this quest for authenticity is seriously meaningful. It's meaningful to us, those of the West who love Thailand's Muay Thai, and it's also meaningful to Thais as well, who have great esteem for its legacy. The only way to significantly engage in the question of authenticity is to acknowledge that it is already substantively hybridized. You and everyone else may be on elephant rides. It's only by identifying the aspects of Muay Thai that are not made for the tourist and adventure tourist, the threads of culture and practice that developed without your presence, or others like you, and nurturing with respect those aspects, that will the authentic journey begin. You may be in a very commercial gym, full of combos and group classes, but your padman probably grew up in kaimuay culture. It's in him. It's what made him. Find ways to connect to that. There are also at times "Thai gyms" (mini-kaimuay) inside commercial gyms, which operates under a different code than the gym for customers. You may be in an Entertainment fight promotion, fight in the traditional style, try to win in the traditional style, even if the ruleset doesn't favor it. Push back against what has been made for you. Learn and identity the lineages of cultural practice that have defined Muay Thai, and connect to those purposely. In a sense, if we all realize we are on elephant rides, at a certain point you have have to love and care for the elephant itself, which is the beautiful, mysterious, almost-like-us, powerful, magical creature. This is the art of Muay Thai. And even if you aren't on the best ride, you are on a mother-effin elephant. Find the culture of the elephant. Find the elephant's history among the people. Find what the elephant needs. Find what is natural to the elephant. Protect and honor the elephant. we wrote a manifest of our values here    
    • As Capitalism deskills and enshittifies (this is pretty clear now), how come people don't realize that this is happening in Muay Thai? It is not "progress". It is the grinding down of skills and our capacity to perceive.
    • Watched this fight the other day, and as much as Wangchannoi is known as a hard-hitting Muay Maat, his hidden art is really the art of spoilage. Watch him spoil one of the great clinch attacks of the Golden Age. Among the many things that he is doing is that his punching and pinning Langsuan's collarbone on his right hand side grab (unusual for an orthodox fighter).
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